F150 stereo upgrade2/21/2024 ![]() This way you get max efficiency out of the speakers without overloading the amp/head unit. The speakers themselves are actually 3 ohm, but with the cabling, an actual resistance of 4 ohms is achieved. They are what Infinity calls "Plus 1" 4 ohm speakers. I bought Infinity Reference Series speakers: 3-1/2" coax center speaker, 6x9" mid/bass + tweeter components for the front, and 6-1/2" coax for the rear. Come to find out, I actually have the 7-speaker system, but the center was virtually worthless & didn't put out anything I could hear. I'm pretty experienced with electronics and audio in general, but have no experience with this type of drop-in kit.Īfter a lot more research, I ended up going thru Crutchfield and getting a complete set of speakers. Has anyone had any experience with this particular kit, or another "OEM Replacement" kit out there? I can obviously get nicer speakers & drop them in, but the high power-handling of most aftermarket speakers will really require an amp to drive at all. ![]() ![]() The thing that attracts me to this setup is the fact that the RMS power handling rating for these speakers is very low (60w RMS for the 6x9, 35w RMS for the 6.5) which leads me to think they'll drive well with the stock head unit without needing an additional amp. I'm looking at a JBL Stage 1 setup, that has coax 6x9's for the front, coax 6.5's for the rear, and harness adapters & spacers for all 4 speakers at a really nice price. I've been looking at a lot of options, and there seem to be some plug & play options our there. I don't want some competition thump or brain-blasting volume I'm just looking for some more clarity out of the stock head unit without adding an amp, if possible. As has every F-150 stock stereo I've ever had. Well thats it for now.I have a 2020 XLT w/stock (6-speaker *non-Sony) Sync 3 stereo, and it sounds like garbage. I bought KnuKonceptz connectors with the screw set. couldnt find my heat gun so I used the toaster over. I cut a piece off to run to battery to the inline fuse all purty like. Ill probably trim some more off after when I decide where the amp lands. And even after I ran the cable all the to the drivers side of the back and left a little slack I cut it and had 5 feet left. It was a 20 foot cable ( I bought a 20 so I would enough left over for a ground wire). I couldnt find it on the inside but then my 15 year old reached up and found it first try! I proceeded to run it down the passenger side in the well underneath the coversthen behind the carpet along the back behind the back seats. I used a fish tape from outside the truck into the cab. it's hot out there!įord gave us a PERFECT place to run the wire right behind the battery on the firewall with a perfectly places and sized grommet (it will fit 0 gauge for sure too). I absolutely will be changing them in phase 2. ![]() I am not changing the stock speakers in the first phase. ![]() I am using a Alpine S-W10D4 subwoofer wired to 2OHMĦ. I have a Fox Acoustics ported 10" Fox Boxĥ. I am re-using my Pioneer D9605 amplifier that I had in my last truck (07 Chevy Avalanche) - it's a 5 channel amp with 75x4 (4OHM) and 600x1 (2OHM).Ĥ. I am using HUSH AUDIO CK11 pre-built harness (recommended as it looks freaking clean as hell!)ģ. I have a pretty clear plan, I am just documenting it because you never know if it will help someone else.ġ. First, I am not looking for advice but its always welcome. ![]()
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